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UKClimbing.com Articles
The UK's leading climbing and mountaineering website.
- The Aspirant Mountaineer - Grooved Arete - Tryfan
Regular UKC contributor Sarah Flint climbs the classic VDiff of Grooved Arete, Tryfan. "...My head wails: 'Off route. Off route', like the most persistent alarm call in the world. My worse nightmare: adrift on a furtive E1. Peering over the rib into a deep groove I can see where the slug has been before. A small and fiendish move over the rib into the groove..." - VIDEO: Bouldering at Castle Hill New Zealand
This ten minute video from Derek Thatcher shows some of the classic lines of the world famous bouldering area Castle Hill in New Zealand. - PHOTOS: Chamonix Lead World Cup
Professional photographer Anna Piunova from the Russian website Mountain.RU was at the Chamonix World Cup last Monday. UKC reported on the event last week, you can read the report here: UKC Report. The winners of the first 2010 Lead World Cup were Charlotte Durif and Ramon Julian Puigblanque . Anna Piunova has taken a superb gallery of photographs from the Chamonix World Cup event, which are shown here: - Scafell, Lake District - UKC Destination Article
Scafell is England's finest cliff and sits at ease alongside the UK's other great mountain bastions such as Creag an Dubh Loch in the Cairngorms and Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in Snowdonia. Scafell has all that is expected of a true mountain crag and its breath-taking mountainscapes, top class routes of all grades and a rich history combine into a sublime climbing experience that is second to none. In this destination article, UKC Assistant Editor Mark Glasiter shows us the best mountain rock in England. - Dupuytren's Contractions - A Climber's Condition?
In the spring and early summer of 2008, Pete O'Donovan underwent two surgical operations to his hands to alleviate a disabling condition known as Dupuytren's Contractions. Despite medical opinion to the contrary, Pete thinks his problems were almost certainly a direct result of climbing. This article was first published on UKC in 2008 and has been reformatted in 2010 to fit with our redesigned site. - DMM First Friday Competition: Winner July
Each first Friday of the month DMM are running a week long competition at UKClimbing.com. All you have to do is answer three questions and you are in with a chance of winning DMM swag. This month it's DMM belay devices. Answer three questions and you could win a DMM Bug and Belay Master, a DMM T-shirt and DMM chalkbag. - How To Improve
"Do you want to improve in your climbing? Improvement can be very desirable, but for many of us it isn't as easy as it appears. I believe that regardless of ability, goals, or climbing styles, improvement starts with having and applying a good basic attitude..." In this article regular contributor Fiend takes us through the steps and attitudes needed to see real improvements in our climbing. From understanding what real improvement is to the difficulties we need to accept in order to make that improvement. - UKClimbing.com content in June 2010
A summary of all the latest content on UKClimbing.com from the past month, including: 12 new articles, 28 product announcements and 8 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers. - Cerro Torre, David Lama and Red Bullshit
Another Cerro Torre controversy. What is it about that spire? If fantasies build any peak, they make Cerro Torre. It is beautiful, hostile, otherworldly. Were it not for its bolt-ladder Compressor Route, with its sordid history, it would surely be the most difficult spire in the world. It attracts not only the obsessed, but also the crazies. And now, the commerce-hungry corporate-funded junkshow... In this Guest Editorial, AAJ Editor Kelly Cordes gives his opinion on the recent attempt at Cerro Torre by David Lama... - Fair Head Meet 2010 - Report
Mountaineering Ireland (MI) hosted the first Fair Head climbing meet over the weekend of 4th - 6th June. The meet was a massive success with over 100 climbers attending the weekend. With Fair Head's remoteness on the north coast of Northern Ireland, it was incredible to witness such a big turnout. Here Paul Swail gives us the full low down: - Millstone - Quarried Grit
Matt Heason takes us on a tour of Millstone in the Peak District. "The fact that Millstone has been quarried has left it with less-than-par frictional properties; angular holds and an abundance of cracks, from the thinnest hairline seams to bottomless off-widths. The length of the routes and quality of the rock leaves one with a definite sense of climbing rather than extended bouldering" - Cliffhanger/Alpkit Shake Out Competition..12 chances to Win!
There's less than two weeks to go before Cliffhanger, the Alpkit Shake Out weekend and the IFSC Bouldering World Cup at Millhouses Park in Sheffield. To celebrate Matt Heason has put together a short quiz with some great prizes from PODsacs, Gaz Parry, 5 Finger Thing, the British Bouldering Team AND 1 adult Alpkit Big Shake Out weekend pass. That's camping, the Thursday night music, Friday film night and the Saturday party. It will also give entry into Cliffhanger too.. 12 chances to win. Thank you Prize Givers. - VIDEO: Steph Davis in The Crack House
In this short video American climber Steph Davis enters 'The Crack House' a super long Moab roof crack in Utah, USA. Although The Crack House is technically a boulder problem, its long length means that it is generally given a route grade of 5.13-, which roughly translated in to UK E grades is around E6. - Stanage - Britain's Most Popular Crag
Gritstone local and professional photographer Adam Long takes us on a quick tour of Stanage - the queen of grit. We get route recommendations, all the info a visiting climber needs, plus of course a set of absolutely stunning photographs. What are you waiting for?! - PHOTO/VIDEO DIARY: 2010 Ama Dablam Expedition
Between April 22 and May 7 of 2010 Philippe Gatta and Jean-Marc Wojcik climbed the Southwest Ridge of Ama Dablam (6856 m) in Nepal. This is a diary style account of their trip with superb photographs and detailed descriptions of their itinerary. There is also a short video at the base of the article.