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UKClimbing.com News
The UK's leading climbing and mountaineering website.
- Another 9a by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has escaped the summer temps and headed into the mountains. To Rawyl in the Swiss Valais Alps to be exact. Must be great to live in a country where you can do that. There, he repeated Cabane au Canada for his second 9a. It's a bit confusing at this point, because as far as I know, Cabane... is a Didiér Berthod route, originally given 8c+. I could be wrong though I suppose. Regardless of grade, the route offers overhanging face climbing and a lot of it. I'll try to get in touch... - VIDEO INTERVIEW: World Cup Final - This Weekend
The final round of the Bouldering World Cup is set to start in Munich on Friday the 29th of July. Currently in the lead in the men's competition is Kilian Fishcuber, the very talented Austrian team member. The only competitor with a chance of snatching the title from Killian is Adam Ondra... - Hard 8c by Alizée Dufraisse
Alizée Dufraisse, who now seems to have decided climbing, as opposed to pole vaulting, is her number one sport, has made the first post broken hold repeat of Sylvain Millét's l'Arcadémicien at Céüse. The very technical and fingery route, is now considerably harder than before and Alizée suggests "hard 8c", which would make it the hardest route climbed by a woman at Céüse. Source: Kairn - One move too many - symposium
13-14 November, The BMC in co-operation with Dr Volker Schöffl (authour of the book "One move too many") is organizing One move too many? a "weekend devoted to the prevention, diagnosis and treatment of climbing-specific injuries (acute & overuse) with international experts". More information at the BMC website - PHOTOS: Lupino Lane and the 'Stag Do'
Last week we published a short report on Dan Varian repeating the Nick Dixon route Lupino Lane - a weird and wonderful E2 7b. The report prompted some interesting forum discussion and Al Williams has sent in some superb images from the 'Stag Do' that is discussed in the thread... - Randall and Whittaker - In Europe and Going Wide
The bolts have been chopped from Thai Boxing, a mysterious offwidth close to Chamonix. It is now back to its original state. "...the route is really sustained overall, with a really good nausea factor. The top-out consists of a filthy squeeze chimney, which just adds to the experience..." - Patxi in Austria - F8c Onsight
Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted an F8c in Austria just a few days after finishing in 7th place at the Arco Rockmaster More details from Bjorn Pohl... - Rob Sutton - DWS - Never Kneel to Skeletor - F7c+
Glasgow based climber Rob Sutton has made what is thought to be the first Deep Water Solo (DWS) ascent of the Dorset testpiece Never Kneel to Skeletor (F7c+) on Saturday the 24th of July. "Although not the most difficult DWS route at Stair Hole, Lulworth, the route has held out despite attention from many strong climbers..." - First 8c by Andy Gullsten
Andy Gullsten, the Finnish teenager who's mostly known as a boulderer, has gone to Céüse and put on a harness and a leach. On his second try this year he made sure he didn't have to put in any more work on the classic La Cronique De La Haine Ordinaire, 8c. Instead, he can now concentrate on Bah, bah, black sheep, a realtively short ~8c/+ signed Dave Graham. Source: Every day is a Saturday - Everest Triathlon
Charlie Wittmack plans a new slant on climbing Everest, by completing a triathlon that is being publicised as the possibly the toughest human endurance event yet conceived. Report by Lindsay Griffin - BMC - The Keith Sharples Be in my Calendar Competition
It's that time of year again, Keith Sharples, in conjunction with UKClimbing.com, presents the annual Be in my Calendar Competition.Full details in this news report. - Lama about the Red Bull controversy
Austrian climber, David Lama has now decided to comment on what happened during his attempt to free climb the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. In short, Lama says he regrets what happened, that this wasn't the plan and that he has learned from the mistakes made. He had his hands and mind full, and had to concentrate on his own climbing, leaving the safety of the film crew to be handled by a team of three mountain guides. This was agreed from the start. The main focus for the... - 3rd ascent of SS26
Giuseppe "Pippo" Nolasco has made the 3rd ascent of Alberto Gnerro's SS26 at Gressonay, in northern Italy. Originally given 9a, and thought to be more like 8c+/9a by Gabri Moroni, who made the 2nd ascent, Pippo feels 8c+ is closer to the mark. Regardless of if it's 8c+ or 9a, this is Pippo's hardest ascent to date. Gressonay is the crag where Gabri Moroni put up his Elementi di disturbo, 8c+/9a, recently. A few days after the FA, Adam Ondra came by and worked it for a day. Guess what. He... - Ramonet roams the rocks
In the highly unlikely case you've missed it, Ramón Julian Puigblanque is the man on form right now. Both in Chamonix and Arco the powerful Spaniard was in a class of his own, and now he's back on rock. Given the huge number of routes this man has already done, you'd think there wouldn't be much left for him in Spain. There is though. Let's just say there's a lot of rock in Spain... During a couple of typical Ramonet style week-ends at Margalef and Sant Llorenç del Munt, he could add... - Bleagle, 8B+, FA by P-Rob
Sorry there haven't been any news for a week or so. Vacation it's called. But now I'm back at the office and psyched to get up to speed and get some serious work done. So, anyway... what's been up? Paul Robinson has made the FA of the broken Black eagle, a problem Fred Nicole put up at the dawn of the 21st century at Rocklands, South Africa. Fred also did the sit down start, 8C, before some of the holds broke. Since then, no one has been able to do it. Until now that is. Paul feels the new...